Replacing the Engine and Transmission mounts will reduce the amount of movement your engine and transmission will be allowed. This makes for a more direct feel when launching and shifting.
Time Required: 45 Minutes
Special tool: 27mm or 1-1/16" socket
thread locking compound (blue)
Note: Replacing engine mounts more directly connects the powertrain to the car's frame. This can lead to a "shaking" sensation at idle, which might take some getting used to.
1) Remove the airbox. The top part is held on with a hose clamp, the MAFS wires, and 4 bolts that can be removed with a flathead screwdriver. The bottom of the airbox can then be removed with sockets.
2) Once the airbox is removed, you must carefully support the transmission with a floor jack. It's best to use one with a wide contact patch and a rubber insert, but a normal floor jack with a piece of wood between the cup and the transmission will suffice.
3) After you're sure the transmission is supported, remove the large center nut on the engine mount. We found that 13/16" works best, but there may be a metric equivalent that I didn't have in my tool kit.
4) Remove the four 15mm nuts from the driver's side mount. After this, the mounting plate and the rubber engine mount should come out easily.
5) Take apart the pieces of the new VF mount, leaving the bottom urethane piece in.
6) Place the new VF mounting plate onto the studs that the original mounting plate came off of. If needed, rock the engine carefully so that the center stud fits into the void in the new mount.
7) Replace the four 15mm nuts and tighten them down
8) Place the upper urethane piece into the mount
9) Thread the upper metal piece onto the center stud. Do not cross thread it!
10) Squeeze a small amount of thread lock into the top metal piece
11) Using a 1-1/16" or 27mm socket, tighten the top metal piece very securely.
12) Lower the floor jack from the transmission slowly, checking to make sure the mount holds securely.
13)Replace the airbox