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Body Kit Installation

Installing a Body Kit is a way to set your ride off from the rest. These instructions were written after a Wings West Avenger Install (Front/Rear Bumpers and Side Skirts) on a ZX3, but should be similar for most body kits on all Foci.

Note:  These Installation notes are provided as-is and 
were written from memory 3 Months after the installation
of me helping install SoundQ's Wings West Avenger Kit.
I Can't guarantee this is all totally correct, but I can
guarantee that reading this will prepare you to do the
installation of almost any body kit that replaces the 
side skirts and bumpers.  No Guarantee can be made for
anything.  This includes document accuracy, fitment issues,
or for body kits involving flared fenders or other parts
not mentioned here.

Materials Needed:
Primered/Painted/Finished Body Kit Side Skirts and Bumpers
Socket Set (Ratchet, Extender Rods, Full Metric Socket Set)
Screwdriver Set (Screwdriver with bits helps)
Standard Bit 
Philips Bit
Torx Bits (15 and 30 Mostly)
Power Drill and Bits 

OPTIONAL:
Floor Jack, jack stands & wheel chocks
Electrical Crimp Tool and Crimp-On Connectors
Tape Measure and/or Measuring Calipers
Black Paint, Masking Tape, and newspaper
Wax Marking Pencil

Time Needed:
A Whole Afternoon would be nice

Procedure: Front Bumper Body Kit Pop The Hood on the car Take out the plastic "Screw" connectors holding the upper grill cover (over the turn signal lights) Take out the four bolts holding the upper grill Go under the car (use floor jack if needed, observe safety when working under a raised vehicle. Always Chock wheels and use jack stands!), remove the electrical connections to the fog lamps and turn signals, un-clip the air dam under the radiator, and remove the three bolts under each head lamp holding the front bumper cover on. Remove the front Bumper Cover Put a bit in the drill and drill out all of the rivets holding the foam impact absorber block from the front frame of the car and remove the foam piece. If you are going to paint the body-colored metal frame that sits behind your front bumper, you should probably do it now. Mask off all parts of your car that are not going to get painted (especially fenders and radiator), and paint the frame black so that it's harder to see it through the new holes in the body kit. (I.E. Wings West Avenger Kit) Let it dry while you work on getting the new bumper cover ready to install. Line up the new Bumper Cover next to the Old one. You'll need to drill mounting holes in the same location as they are on the old bumper cover. If installing lights or other accessories on the body kit, take the time to do it right. Measure distances and mark your drilling points with a wax marker to make sure you have it symmetrical. Wings West Avenger doesn't come with any corner turn signals, so drilling holes and installing a new set is typically a must for street-legal cars. If also painting the frame of the car, give it about 30 minutes to dry if you haven't spent that much time prepping the bumper cover. (go get something to drink and eat :) When ready, Test fit the front bumper cover. If all looks good, re-install the 3 bolts under the headlamps on each side. If needed, install any mounting brackets meant to hold the bottom of the front bumper securely. On the Avenger Kit there are two metal bars that screw into the frame under the radiator. Drill pilot holes in the frame and attach the metal bars with the provided screws. Align the metal bars with the front part of the bodykit and drill pilot holes. Attach the bars fully with provided screws. Attach any wires needed for turn signals or aftermarkt fog lights. You will probably need to use a crimp tool and terminating connectors to do this. Secure and seal any un-used wires (wrap them in electrical tape if needed. The avenger it comes with no way to install OEM Fog lights) Re-Install the upper grill using the four bolts. Re-Install the Upper grill cover with the plastic connectors. Rear Bumper Body Kit Pop the Hatchback open and remove the connectors from the top of the bumper cover. Optional Step: Using a Floor Jack, raise both sides of the car in the back, supporting both sides with jack stands, and remove the rear wheels. We didn't do this, but retrospectively we probably should have. Using Torx Bits, remove the inner rear wheel well lining. Get behind the rear wheel well and loosen the bolts holding the bumper brackets on. They're pretty difficult to find and remove. Be Patient. To the same to the other side. Remove the rear bumper cover by pulling the cover outward from the part nearest the wheel on both sides. Once removed, take off the 2 black mounting brackets from the bumper cover. We'll need them later. If you are going to paint the body-colored metal frame that sits behind your rear bumper, you should probably do it now. Mask off all parts of your car that are not going to get painted (Fenders, Exhaust, and hatch) and paint the frame black so that it's harder to see it through the new holes in the body kit. Let it dry while you work on getting the new bumper cover ready to install. Line up the new Bumper Cover next to the Old one. You'll need to drill mounting holes in the same location as they are on the old bumper cover, and tweak the cover sufficiently to install the black plastic mounting brackets from the old bumper onto the new one. If also painting the frame of the car, give it about 30 minutes to dry if you haven't spent that much time prepping the bumper cover. Remove masking material and tape if you painted the frame. When ready, Test fit the rear bumper cover. Start with just the plastic snap-on connectors on the top of the bumper. Snap the side mounting brackets into place to test for fitment. There's a good chance you'll have to work on the top of the rear bumper and where it meets the side body panels to get good fitment. Once it looks good, put all the connectors back in, and fasten the brackets on. Replace the rear wheel well lining, and if you removed the wheels, replace them. Lower the car if raised. Side Skirts Pull the front plastic piece of the side skirt off with your hands. Find the TORX head screw behind it, and loosen it. Do the same for the screw near the rear wheel. Pull the side skirt firmly down and away from the body to pull the snap connectors out. If any plastic snap connectors remain on the car, remove them carefully with hand tools. Perform Thorough cleaning of the car's surface under the side skirts. Test fit the aftermarket side skirts, making sure door clearance and fitment is satisfactory. Use 3M Adhesive Promoter (Ships with most side skirts, but available at auto body shop supply stores) on the areas that will meet with the 3M Double-Sided Mounting Foam on the side skirts. Let it sit for 5 minutes before beginning final skirt placement. Remove the protective Film from the double-sided mounting foam on the side skirt. Carefully line up the skirt without allowing mounting foam to touch the car body. When it is lined up correctly, press the skirt firmly against the car, applying pressure along the whole length of it. If needed, drill pilot holes and install any mounting hardware that came with the side skirts. the WW Avenger kit has a bracket for the back part of the side skirt to reinforce the large vent-like rear part that flares out. Other kits may or may not have this. Again, make sure for final fitment that all mounting tape is securely attached to the body of the car. Enjoy the new look, and watch for big bumps!

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